Allen Meadows - Score: 93-96 (2020 June)

A deft application of wood sets off a notably ripe but not really exotic nose that includes notes of white peach, wet stone and citrus zest that are complemented by floral and spice wisps. Like the Bâtard, there is excellent intensity to the big-bodied and solidly powerful flavors that deliver almost painful intensity and power on the tension-filled and stony finish that is less youthfully austere than it typically is. This is a big but immaculately well-balanced effort that should amply repay extended keeping.