Allen Meadows - Score: 93-96 (2020 January)

Once again there is reduction present and here it's enough to mask the fruit though wisps of spice are perceptible. Otherwise there is fine richness and volume to the velvet-textured medium-bodied flavors that brim with both minerality and sappy dry extract before culminating in a very firm, youthfully austere and gorgeously persistent finish. But what impresses me the most is the strikingly fine depth and this outstanding effort should amply reward extended keeping.