Allen Meadows - Score: 95-98 (2021 January)

A restrained yet elegant nose reluctantly offers up its notes of plum liqueur, black fruit and a wonderfully broad range of exotic Asian-style spices that in particular includes sandalwood and hoisin. The rich, generous and gorgeously textured and imposingly big flavors caress the palate thanks to the abundance of dry extract that helps to buffer the firm, austere and mouth coating yet chiseled finish that displays simply huge length. This knockout effort is at once powerful and seductive and a wine that should be genuinely great in time.