Allen Meadows - Score: 91 (2005 Mar.)

Two bottles of this wine were tasted side by side, one with a near perfect fill level and the other with approximately 1" of ullage; interestingly, both of these bottles showed substantially better than did the magnum tasted some years ago (see herein). Initially, the lower fill bottle displayed much more expressive aromas of spice, hints of sous-bois, leather and ample earth notes with surprisingly good freshness and vibrancy to the rich, medium full flavors. However, after 20 minutes the higher fill bottle came on with a rush and while it had a similar aroma and flavor profile, there was even better freshness and punch plus superior length. In either case, the wines were outstanding but particularly so for the vintage. Another bottle tasted in '05 was beautifully spicy but seriously tiring without the freshness or vibrancy.