Vinous - Score: 98 (2020 July)

The 1949 Petrus is served from two bottles to compare, one acquired from the Loubat auction through Sotheby’s and the other winged direct from the Avery’s cellar in Bristol, albeit with a Petrus capsule that according to Richard Avery, present at this tasting, suggests that it would have been bottled in Pomerol, probably a month later than the château bottling. It is the Avery bottle that really shines. Whereas the Loubat bottled never quite takes off and certainly fails to replicate my only previous encounter, the Avery’s bottling is magnificent. Slightly deeper in colour than the Loubat bottle, it soars from the glass with exquisitely defined scents of dark berry fruit, freshly shaved black truffle, mint and cedar. The palate is blessed with wonderful balance and precision, delivering the leitmotifs of Pomerol: that ferrous undertow, hints of smoke and truffle. It is a fine-boned Petrus that has always pursued elegance and refinement. Just a stunning wine that deserves its legendary status. And chapeau to Ronald Avery!